Americans’ love affair with denim is part of the country’s fabric, if you will. Much like the Statue of Liberty, denim came from France—historians tend to agree that it originated in the town of Nîmes (hence “denim”—short for “de Nîmes” or “from Nîmes”)—but it is a quintessentially American thing. It’s associated with a wide-open country, with freedom and, of course, with the red, white and blue. (Really, is there anything more American than George Strait in a pair of Wranglers or Bruce Springsteen’s derriere on the cover of his “Born in the U.S.A.” record?) Jeans will even figure in prominently to Team USA’s opening ceremony outfits at the Paris Olympics next month.
It is no exaggeration to say that America is obsessed with denim—maybe more today than ever. The average American has seven pairs of jeans—in other words, one for every day of the week. Americans now wear denim at home, to the supermarket and in the office. Some even wear denim at weddings, much to the chagrin of some online commentators.
Why does denim continue to go strong after so many years on the fashion scene? Wearing a pair of jeans fits with Americans’ ever-growing love of all things casual. It fits with young people’s nostalgia for a time before they were born. It fits with older people’s desire to hold onto their youth. In short, denim aligns with so much of what today’s American ethos is all about.
A Golden Age of Denim
The United States and denim share an intimate history that can be traced all the way back to the late 18th century, when American textile mills began manufacturing cotton fabric. The term “denim” was first mentioned in 1789, when a Rhode Island newspaper highlighted local denim production. In 1864, Webster’s Dictionary began including the word in its pages.
But perhaps denim was truly born in 1873. That year, history was made when David Jacobs and Levi Strauss obtained a patent for their iconic 501 jeans. (More than 150 years later, the 501 jeans continue to be a cornerstone of Levi’s brand.) With the creation of these jeans, denim took its first step toward worldwide ubiquity. During the Second World War, largely due to its durability, denim was utilized as a substitute for other fabrics that were required for the war effort—including wool, widely used for military uniforms; cotton, essential for making tents, bandages and other military necessities; silk, needed for parachutes and other specialized military applications; and nylon, critical for parachutes, ropes and other wartime equipment. Denim found its way into various uniforms, even the attire of the prison population.
Levi Strauss & Co. began making its first overseas sales to U.S. military exchanges in Europe and the Pacific. In the blink of an eye, from Stuttgart to Sapporo, denim became an internationally desirable product and a sign of American influence around the world (talk about soft power!).
Within a few years, denim went from a fabric of necessity to one of fashion. In the 1950s, Hollywood stars made denim cool and sexy. Wearing jeans and denim jackets became more than just a stylistic choice; it became a social statement. In 1955’s “Rebel Without a Cause,” James Dean wore jeans and a denim jacket, projecting an image of youthful defiance and independence. In “The Wild One,” released in 1953, Marlon Brando’s character, a rebellious biker, wore jeans and a leather jacket, cementing denim’s association with a rugged, rebellious image. In “The Misfits,” Marilyn Monroe helped make jeans fashionable for women, adding a touch of sex appeal to the fabric. Each of these portrayals of denim resonated with teenagers: These jeans-wearing characters all wanted to break away from conventional norms and establish their identities. Wearing denim became a powerful middle finger to the status quo—and a symbol that more and more people wanted to adopt.
Fast forward to today: Everyone, from babies to Joe Biden, appears to be a devoted disciple of denim. Really, the golden age of denim is upon us, and there’s no sign of the sun setting on its kingdom.
The Freedom To Be Casual
Denim’s popularity today shouldn’t surprise us. In fact, although denim has long been popular, wearing denim is increasingly in line with our values—certainly stateside, but all around the world as well.
Part of the reason for the arrival of denim’s golden age is the mass “casualization” of culture. One significant influence is the shift in workplace attire, particularly at tech companies and startups that have popularized more relaxed dress codes. Steve Jobs, Mark Zuckerberg and Elon Musk are synonymous with many things, but never suit-and-tie dress norms. Cultural shifts that place a higher value on comfort and individuality than formality support this trend toward the casual—just look at the rise of athleisure and streetwear. (Of course, some might grumble that we have become lazier and sloppier, and that this is now reflected in the way we dress.)
Technological advancements have also played a crucial role, with remote work and the gig economy transforming how people dress for work. Forget formal attire; some people debate whether or not to put on pants. Dressing down is the new dressing up—welcome to the age where “business casual” means looking presentable from the waist up on Zoom calls. Media and pop culture further amplify this trend, as celebrities, influencers and fashion icons often promote casual styles on platforms like Instagram and TikTok.
America has never been a land of formality, but it’s less so than ever. The conditions under which we wear denim have expanded. Restaurants with dress codes are becoming more and more anachronistic. Casual Fridays at the office seem to have expanded to every day of the week.
Americans’ desire for all things denim is unrivaled, but as the saying goes, “when America sneezes, the world catches a cold.” According to a recent report by the magazine Fibre2Fashion, denim is now the preferred choice of attire for various events across the U.K. Traditional outfits like suits and heels, long associated with a posh London lifestyle, are being cast aside. Today, jeans and sneakers are the go-to choice for formal events for over two-thirds of Brits, particularly younger ones. This trend reflects broader societal changes in attitudes toward fashion, work and lifestyle. The line between formal and informal language, events and attire has been completely blurred.
A Fabric for All Ages
That brings me to the other major reason why denim reigns supreme today—it seems to be one of the few fashion options that blurs the lines among ages. Despite the age gap among those who feel it’s appropriate to wear jeans to formal events, there’s no doubt that people of all ages find denim appealing in at least some instances.
Why is this? First, Americans seem to be increasingly interested in agelessness. Between 2019 and 2022 alone, there was a nearly 20% increase in cosmetic surgery procedures. Rocking a pair of jeans is less costly and risky than going under the knife, but for some people, wearing denim represents a similar desire to look youthful. At the same time, jeans are also a must-have staple that represents comfort and familiarity—still a reminder of their younger days, albeit a gentle one.
And on the other end of the age spectrum, lots of young people choose to wear denim out of a subliminal sense of nostalgia. On first inspection, the link between nostalgia and denim might seem flimsy. But look a little closer, and you’ll see that they are, in fact, intimate bedfellows.
Denim’s timelessness and versatility have ensured its enduring presence in fashion across decades. Its ability to transcend age boundaries is undebatable. For younger generations, particularly Gen Z, denim serves as more than just a fashion choice—it’s a symbol of anemoia, a longing for a time they never lived through themselves. This generation finds resonance in the cultural ethos of past decades, adopting styles that harken back to earlier fashion eras, a time far more familiar to their parents than to themselves. Members of my own generation, millennials, have a somewhat cringe-worthy passion for skinny jeans. Gen Zers, however, do not. In their eyes, skinny jeans are well and truly dead. Instead, zoomers can be found rocking low-rise jeans, which were fashionable long before the first post-millennial arrived on the scene. Gen Z females are huge fans of denim maxi skirts, which were fashionable in the 1980s.
The intergenerational appeal of denim underscores its unique ability to bridge generational gaps. But this also creates a tension. Remember, Gen Z has latched onto clothing that older generations once favored and possibly still favor. Seeing someone who is old enough to be your mother or father or even your grandparent, donning the same piece of clothing as you can be a bit jarring—even infuriating. That’s because for many, fashion is extremely personal. It is a way of connecting with peers, setting trends and defying social structures. Gen Z is nostalgic for a time in which they never existed, but when older generations did. Such a longing can, stylistically speaking, create conflict. If the trend continues, expect denim-related debates to heat up.
As the scholar Deirdre Clemente has noted, to “dress casual is quintessentially to dress as an American and to live, or to dream of living, fast and loose and carefree.” It’s a mixture that’s certainly inherent to American life, but also appealing to all those who want to emulate America’s quintessentially independent streak. No wonder jeans rule, and will likely continue to for a long time: Denim dovetails perfectly into this duality of the casual and the dynamic.